7 reasons your retinol isn't working - and what to do instead
Written by the team who spent 20 years finding a better alternative. If retinol has let you down, read this first.
University of Leeds research
Peer-reviewed science
Funded by Innovate UK
If you're over 45 and retinol hasn't delivered what it promised - you're not failing it. It's failing you.The science behind retinol is real. But the way most retinol products work, the side effects they can cause, and the limitations they come with? Those are real too. Here's what's actually going on.
The irritation problem
1) Retinol is making your skin more sensitive - not less
Retinol accelerates cell turnover. In theory, this is good. In practice, it means the top layers of your skin are constantly being shed before they're ready, leaving newer, thinner skin exposed. The result: redness, flaking, tightness, and sun sensitivity - especially on mature skin that's already producing less collagen and oil than it used to.
For women over 45, this effect is amplified. Lower oestrogen levels mean your skin's barrier is already more easily compromised. Retinol doesn't know that - it treats your skin like a 28-year-old's.
The SPF trap
2) You're being asked to manage a complicated routine just to use it safely
Retinol makes skin photosensitive - meaning daily SPF isn't optional, it's mandatory. Morning routine, evening routine, never skip, never wax within five days, avoid AHAs, avoid vitamin C at the same time. For many women, this complexity is the quiet reason they stop.
Skincare should support your life, not add a management burden to it.
The OTC potency gap
3) Over-the-counter retinol is usually too weak to do much
Most high-street retinol products sit at concentrations far below what clinical studies used to prove efficacy. The research is done on prescription-strength tretinoin. The product on the shelf is often a fraction of that - diluted for safety and shelf life, and converted inefficiently by your skin anyway.
Many women spend months on OTC retinol seeing nothing, then either give up or escalate to prescription tretinoin - which brings the purge and side effects in full force.
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The conversion problem
4) Your skin has to convert retinol before it can use it - and it may not be doing that efficiently
Retinol doesn't work directly. It has to be converted into retinoic acid by enzymes in your skin before it becomes active. This conversion process varies significantly between individuals - and declines with age. So even if you're applying the right product consistently, your skin may only be using a fraction of it.
This is why two people can use the same product and have completely different results. It's not your skin’s fault - it's the delivery mechanism.
The commitment problem
5) Once you start, you're told you can never stop
Retinol works by continuously accelerating cell turnover. When you stop, turnover slows back down and many of the benefits reverse. This is the subscription model built into the ingredient itself - not a conspiracy, just biology. But it creates real anxiety: what happens to my skin if I have to travel, take a break, or can't afford it anymore?
The timing problem
6) Results take so long, most people give up before they arrive
Clinical studies on retinol typically measure results at 12 to 24 weeks. That's three to six months of consistent use - managing side effects, maintaining the routine, spending the money - before you can even fairly evaluate whether it's working. Most women don't get there. They stop at week six and conclude retinol "doesn't work for me."
The synthetic problem
7) You're using a synthetic vitamin A derivative on your skin every night and hoping for the best
Retinol is a vitamin A derivative - synthetically produced for most cosmetic applications. The skincare industry has spent decades convincing us that synthetic is necessary for efficacy. It isn't. The question was never whether natural compounds could work. It was whether anyone had figured out how to extract and deliver them at full potency. Until now, the answer was largely no.
Independent clinical evidence - published peer-reviewed research
Natural Alternative to Retinol: Eye Cream | Moisturiser
90%
average improvement in roughness and dryness across all participants - 12 weeks
39%
average increase in skin firmness across all participants - 12 weeks
90%
average improvement in roughness and dryness across all participants - 12 weeks
39%
average increase in skin firmness across all participants - 12 weeks
46%
improvement in eye area appearance - 12 weeks
82%
of testers felt more hydrated after just 2 days
46%
improvement in eye area appearance - 12 weeks
82%
of testers felt more hydrated after just 2 days
Results from UK clinical studies published in The International Journal of Cosmetic Science and British Journal of Dermatology. Consumer studies conducted 2023–2025 with 25–28 testers over 12 weeks.
Women who made the switch
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"This made a visible difference in just a few weeks. Have been looking for a really good moisturiser for a long time."
"I loved the creamy consistency and how hydrated it left my skin feeling. I’ve had compliments on how lovely my skin looks since using it.”
“The moisturiser lasts very well on the skin, a small amount goes a long way. It has become a staple in my routine and improves the overall look of skin on my no make-up days.”
Over 20 years of research.
Two world-leading professors.
One breakthrough.
Professor Richard Blackburn, Professor of Sustainable Materials at the University of Leeds, is a world leader in green chemistry and its industrial application.
Professor Christopher Rayner, Professor of Organic Chemistry at the University of Leeds, brings over 30 years' expertise in natural product extraction and characterisation.
Together with co-founder Anna Valle, a former VP Global Brand Director at Liz Earle - who herself has struggled with traditional retinol over the years - they created a 100% natural alternative to retinol that is equally efficacious, better for your skin, and
better for the environment too.
The retinol results.
None of the side effects.
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